By Tamara Shiloh

Ann Cole Lowe, born Dec.14, 1898, was a pioneering American fashion designer whose extraordinary talent shaped some of the most widely recognized and celebrated gowns in U.S. history.

Although she designed dresses for society’s wealthiest families and created masterpieces worn at historic events, Lowe spent much of her life in the shadows — uncredited, underpaid, yet unmatched in skill. Today, she is celebrated as one of the first nationally recognized African American fashion designers and a true visionary in American couture.

Lowe was born in Clayton, Alabama, into a family of gifted seamstresses. Her mother and grandmother were well-known dressmakers who created exquisite gowns for women in the area. By the time Lowe was a young girl, she was already showing extraordinary talent — cutting, sewing, and decorating fabric with a skill that far exceeded her age. When her mother died unexpectedly, Lowe – only 16 years old then – took over her mother’s sewing business, completing all the orders herself. This early responsibility would prepare her for a lifetime of professional excellence.

In 1917, Lowe moved to New York City to study at the S.T. Taylor Design School. Although she was segregated from White students and forced to work separately, she, of course, excelled, graduating earlier than expected. Her instructors quickly recognized that her abilities were far above the typical student, especially her skill in hand-sewing, applique, and intricate floral embellishment – techniques that would become her signature.

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Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, she designed gowns for high-society women in Florida and New York, operating boutiques and working for prestigious department stores. Her reputation for craftsmanship, originality, and elegance grew increasingly. She was known for creating gowns that moved beautifully, featured delicate hand-made flowers, and looked sculpted rather than sewn. Many wealthy clients specifically requested “an Ann Lowe gown” for weddings, balls, and galas.

Her most famous creation came in 1953: the wedding gown worn by Jacqueline Bouvier when she married Massachusetts Sen. John F. Kennedy. The dress – crafted from ivory silk taffeta with dozens of tiny, pleated rosettes – became one of the most photographed bridal gowns in American history. Despite this achievement, Lowe received no public credit at the time. When a flood destroyed her completed gowns 10 days before the wedding, she and her seamstresses worked day and night to remake everything – at her own expense. Her dedication and perfectionism never wavered.

She eventually opened “Ann Lowe Originals,” her own salon on New York’s Madison Avenue. She served clients such as the Rockefellers, DuPonts, Vanderbilts, and actresses like Olivia de Havilland. Yet even with her wealthy clientele, she struggled financially, often undercharging because she wanted every dress to be perfect, even if it meant losing money.

Lowe’s contributions were finally recognized later in life. Today, her exquisite gowns are preserved in museums, including the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture and the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

In the last five years of her life, Lowe lived with her daughter Ruth in Queens, N.Y. She died at her daughter’s home on Feb. 25, 1981, at the age of 82, after an extended illness.

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By Joe W. Bowers, California Black Media

On Oct. 10, the California Department of Education released its 2023-24 statewide assessment results showing promising but gradual progress within some key academic areas. The report highlights improvements, especially among Black and socioeconomically disadvantaged students, while overall scores remain below pre-pandemic levels.

Overall, the percentage of students statewide meeting or exceeding standards in English language arts (ELA) was 47%, up from 46.7% last year. Those reaching proficiency in mathematics were at 35.5%, from 34.6%. Science scores rose from 30.2% to 30.7%. Black/African American students showed the most improvement in third-grade math, with scores increasing by 0.9 percentage points. Socioeconomically disadvantaged students also saw notable gains, with a 1.5% increase in ELA and a 2.1% gain in math.

State Superintendent of Public Instruction Tony Thurmond praised the efforts of California’s schools and students, saying, “I commend California’s students and educators for their hard work and continued growth in academic achievement across the state. We know the high potential of all California’s students, and we still have a ways to go to ensure that every child is supported to build strong academic skills and access a bright future.”

Linda Darling-Hammond, President of the State Board of Education, emphasized the importance of continued investment in student success. “Today’s results suggest that California’s public schools are making encouraging gains in all of the key subject areas, and these gains are largest for our most vulnerable groups of students,” she said.

Despite the progress, overall student performance remains a concern. Vernon M. Billy, CEO of the California School Boards Association, stressed the need for more rapid and widespread improvement. “Despite incremental improvement of less than half a percentage point in English Language Arts (ELA) and less than one percentage point in Mathematics, overall student performance remains below pre-pandemic levels — which were already unacceptable,” Billy said.

He also expressed concern over the sustainability of improvements as COVID-19 relief funds expire in 2025, which provided critical support for interventions like tutoring and expanded learning programs. “It’s high time the state’s investment and focus match our rhetoric, so California schools can prepare all students, regardless of background, for success in college, career, and civic life,” Billy concluded.

Maintaining momentum beyond the pandemic will require continued investment and innovation to close the persistent achievement gaps affecting California’s most vulnerable students.

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By Carla Thomas

Black Friday and Small Business Saturday had to make way for Black Out Sunday with Phyllis Emelda Designs and Company on Sunday, Nov. 26, at the Veterans Memorial Building in San Leandro. The event opened a gateway to the local fashionista’s global couture, kicking off the holidays in style with all the glitz and glam the audience could handle.

The full afternoon of fashion, food and fun produced by Woman in the Moons Productions featured models blazing the runway with one-of-a-kind designs for bodies of all sizes. From women’s fashions and menswear to children’s clothing, Black Out Sunday also featured emerging artists Kandy Kyriakou and Phyllis Emelda’s own granddaughter Reya Renee, among others.

Entertainment by Mercenery, formerly Graham Central Station, a Tavia Percia theatrical production and Dr. Yvonne Cobbs’ gospel explosion also complimented the lineup.

During the event, guests were able to jumpstart their Christmas shopping with vendors offering a variety of handmade gifts, garments, jewels and crafts. A portion of the proceeds benefitted the Healthy Living Foundation, founded by Dr. Yvonne Cobbs.

Beyond the runway, on Sundays Emelda opens her East Oakland home as a design studio and modeling training ground. With woodshop and home economics no longer taught in high school or middle schools, Emelda says youth and young adults are missing out on key opportunities.

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“I view the fashion industry as a whole, including product development, creative design theory, sales, marketing and presentation. I have students of all backgrounds. Currently one from India, one from DuBai, and five college graduates, including a scientist, chemist, and two engineers.

“My students and participants are ages 5 – 75 years old. My 6-year-old granddaughter is already illustrating her designs.

“We are working on bringing the program into the Oakland public schools and Recreation Centers in the near future. I currently offer this training free of charge to Oakland Inner City Youth, which is my target market for training.”

In February 2022 she was selected Emerging Designer for New York Fashion Week.

“I took 17 inner city hopefuls to New York Fashion Week for an experience of a lifetime,” she said. “My 6-year-old granddaughter was the youngest-ever model for NYFW.”

Phyllis Emelda & Company began as Blaize in 1991, having grown to four locations in Bay Area malls.

By the late 90s she began working with a slinky fiber and developed a line of seven interchangeable garments suitable in style for most women. This collection was called “Wardrobe In A Box.” The explosive success of the collection landed her in a spot on a roadshow program with Costco Stores. After an exhausting 18 months of working on the road, Emelda fell ill and then her mother passed away. “The devastation took its toll, but I knew I had to reinvent myself yet again.”

She began marketing her collection to boutiques nationally and contracted with Walmart Stores to bring her Travelwear Collection to Sam’s Club. She also contracted with Seams To Fit in Berkeley, Grand Diva Salon in Florida, The San Francisco Opera House, Thunder Valley Casino Resort, and Zulily.com. Her line was then qualified by the Art Commission as Wearable Art.

“During the pandemic, my team and I launched Drama Dressing, The Couture Collection-(Just Coats by Phyllis Emelda) and an updated version of “Wardrobe In A Box” shown for the first time at New York Fashion Week 2022.

“This year was great, but I have much more in store for 2024,” she said.

For more information visit: www.phyllisemelda.com

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