Arts and Culture
The Extraordinary Life of James Hemings: A Culinary Pioneer
James Hemings, born in 1765, became one of the most important figures in the history of American cuisine, due largely to his connection with Thomas Jefferson. Hemings was born enslaved, brought to Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello estate when he was just nine years old with his siblings and mother, Elizabeth Hemings. Jefferson inherited the Hemings family from his wife, Martha Wayles Jefferson’s estate. The Hemings family made up the largest family at Monticello, free or enslaved, many of them forced to work as domestic workers or tradespeople for Jefferson.
By Tamara Shiloh
James Hemings, born in 1765, became one of the most important figures in the history of American cuisine, due largely to his connection with Thomas Jefferson.
Hemings was born enslaved, brought to Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello estate when he was just nine years old with his siblings and mother, Elizabeth Hemings. Jefferson inherited the Hemings family from his wife, Martha Wayles Jefferson’s estate. The Hemings family made up the largest family at Monticello, free or enslaved, many of them forced to work as domestic workers or tradespeople for Jefferson.
Hemings’s life changed dramatically, when, in 1784, Jefferson took him to Paris. While Jefferson served as the U.S. ambassador to France, James was sent to train in some of the finest French kitchens and immediately trained in the art of French dining, studying with restaurateur Monsieur Combeaux, before studying under pastry chefs and then working as a chef in the home of Prince de Condé. He stayed there three years, learning as much as he could before landing a job as the head chef at the Hôtel de Langeac, where Jefferson resided. The hotel doubled as the American embassy.
While serving there, Hemings served a variety of public figures, including international guests, authors, scientists, politicians and European aristocrats. For his work, Hemings was paid 24 livres a month, the equivalent of about $30 today. While his wages and occasional gratuity were more than what he made in the U.S., it was only half of what Jefferson paid his former chef.
Hemings’s time in France was a period of growth, both personally and professionally. He mastered the art of French cooking and also experienced a taste of freedom, as slavery had been abolished in France by then. However, he made the choice to return to America with Jefferson, hoping to secure freedom on his own terms.
Upon returning to Monticello in 1789, Hemings became Jefferson’s chef de cuisine, a prestigious role that solidified his importance in the Jefferson household. It was during this time that James introduced many French dishes to America, including the now-iconic French fries, crème brûlée, and meringues. His skillful blending of French techniques with local ingredients helped shape the foundations of American cuisine.
James Hemings’ story took a remarkable turn when Jefferson agreed to free him, but only after he trained another chef to take his place. James fulfilled his end of the bargain and was granted his freedom in 1796. As a free man, he traveled and worked as a chef, but his story sadly ended in tragedy. In 1801, at the age of 36, James Hemings died under mysterious circumstances, possibly by suicide.
