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The 2019 Met Gala: Lena Waithe and Kerby Jean-Raymond Slay for The Culture

NNPA NEWSWIRE — Waithe is literally the present and future of film and television with her Emmy award for Master of None. Jean-Raymond is the present and future of fashion with his 2018 CFDA (The Council of Fashion Designers of America) nomination for Emerging Talent and 2019 CFDA nomination for Menswear Designer of the Year (Pyer Moss).

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By Nsenga K. Burton, Ph.D., NNPA Newswire Contributor

Actress, showrunner and writer Lena Waithe “came to slay” at the 2019 Met Gala strutting on the pink carpet wearing a pinstripe Carolina blue suit with the statement “Black Drag Queens Invented Camp” written in script across her back. With Haitian-American fashion designer Kerby Jean-Raymond at her side and wearing the same suit in a different color, the it-duo donned Pyre Moss’ (Jean-Raymond’s fashion label) very 80s styled suit which enveloped the words to music legend Diana Ross’ classic hit song “I’m Coming Out,” in the pin stripes. Jewelry Designer Johnny Nelson collaborated with Pyre Moss and created 16 custom iconic portrait buttons and black power fist cuff links to adorn their suits. Kerby chose 8 of his favorite rappers for his buttons: Nipsey Hussle, Nas, J. Cole, Kendrick Lamar, Drake, Jay-Z, Meek Mill and Tupac. Waithe chose LGBTQ icons for hers: RuPaul, Octavia St. Laurent, Dorian Corey, Freddie Pendavis, Pepper La Beija, Paris DuPree, Venus Xtravaganza and Willie Ninja.

The outspoken artists confronted the controversy brewing since the Met’s announcement that the 2019 theme of the costume exhibition would be “Camp: Notes on Fashion.” The Met exhibition would be an ode to Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay that defines camp as “love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration.”

Susan Sontag is to camp what Norman Mailer is to cool. Sontag’s writing is revered and reviled with the same intensity by artists, intellectuals and the like. One of the reasons her work is reviled is because of the invisibility of the blackness that informs it. Sontag’s essay failed to mention one black person; the only person of color mentioned is Cuban pop singer La Lupe. Her essay posits camp in a binary construct of gender and class yet fails to mention race. For the out black queer queen of Hollywood to step onto the pink carpet proclaiming black culture as the foundation for the evening with Jean-Raymond who burst onto the fashion scene with his presentation at Pyer Moss’ 2015 Spring Menswear Collection which confronted policy brutality and referenced the Black Lives Matter movement and literally wearing the words and images of black and gay icons is in a word – gangsta.

Waithe is literally the present and future of film and television with her Emmy award for Master of None. Jean-Raymond is the present and future of fashion with his 2018 CFDA (The Council of Fashion Designers of America) nomination for Emerging Talent and 2019 CFDA nomination for Menswear Designer of the Year (Pyer Moss). Waithe and Jean-Raymond make major moves and statements in dominant cultural industries that have historically marginalized and “othered” black folks, while simultaneously appropriating black cultural symbols and practices. The duo’s unified emergence on the pink carpet demonstrates their awareness of the power play in progress and their commitment as “othered” artists, yet and again, to battle the cultural dismissal head on.

In the same vein that Waithe and Jean-Raymond, who has built a brand that tackles issues of social justice directly and centers Black American stories in his sure-to-be iconic fasion collections (American Also), their pairing is a fierce statement of the centrality of black culture, the shared global histories and struggles of black people of African descent and the mandate in this climate, which is in many ways a microcosm of a macro problem – to deconstruct and address the invisibility of black people in general and queer black people specifically.

Their privileging of queer black people and culture tells the story of an underappreciation of black and queer contributions to society despite the use and misuse of black and queer culture and in this case, black queer creative labor to build empires. Both are disrupting American industries (media and fashion) through their award-winning and highly acclaimed work (Master of None, Seven Mothers) while being themselves. They literally used their black and queer bodies and clothing to disrupt one of the most iconic and beloved events in the world.

Gotham got got last night by a black lesbian from the Southside of Chicago and a Haitian American from Brooklyn who has been toiling in the fashion industry since age 15. They know the industries they work in like the back of their hands, which is one of the reasons for their major successes while being very clear about who they are as people and artists and what they represent. They challenged Sontag’s limited definition of camp and inverted the power relationship if only for a moment. The wonder twins used their cultural capital to remind attendees that this “celebration” and “exhibition” would not be possible without the contributions of queer black folk. Waithe and Jean-Raymond physically “trolled” the theme of the 2019 Met Gala with their bodies, stories and fashion. One could say, they slayed for the culture and if that isn’t camp, then I don’t know what is.

This post was written by Nsenga K Burton, Ph.D., founder & editor-in-chief of The Burton Wire. An expert in intersectionality and media industries, Dr. Burton is also a professor of film and television at Emory University and co-editor of the book, Black Women’s Mental Health: Balancing Strength and Vulnerability. Follow her on Twitter @Ntellectual or @TheBurtonWire

Fashion Designer Kerby Raymond-Jean and Actress/Showrunner Lena Waithe arrive at the 2019 Met Gala. (Instagram: Lena Waithe)

Fashion Designer Kerby Raymond-Jean and Actress/Showrunner Lena Waithe arrive at the 2019 Met Gala. (Instagram: Lena Waithe)

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A Nation in Freefall While the Powerful Feast: Trump Calls Affordability a ‘Con Job’

BLACKPRESSUSA NEWSWIRE — There are seasons in this country when the struggle of ordinary Americans is not merely a condition but a kind of weather that settles over everything.

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By Stacy M. Brown
Black Press USA Senior National Correspondent

There are seasons in this country when the struggle of ordinary Americans is not merely a condition but a kind of weather that settles over everything. It enters the grocery aisle, the overdue bill, the rent notice, and the long nights spent calculating how to get through the next week. The latest numbers show that this season has not passed. It has deepened.

Private employers cut 32,000 jobs in November, according to ADP. Because the nation has been hemorrhaging jobs since President Trump took office, the administration has halted publishing the traditional monthly report. The ADP report revealed that small businesses suffered the heaviest losses. Establishments with fewer than 50 workers shed 120,000 positions, including 74,000 from companies with 20 to 49 workers. Larger firms added 90,000 jobs, widening the split between those rising and those falling.

Meanwhile, wealth continues to climb for the few who already possess most of it. Federal Reserve data shows the top 1 percent now holds $52 trillion. The top 10 percent added $5 trillion in the second quarter alone. The bottom half gained only 6 percent over the past year, a number so small it fades beside the towering fortunes above it.

“Less educated and poorer people tend to make worse mistakes,” John Campbell said to CBS News, while noting that the complexity of the system leaves many families lost before they even begin. Campbell, a Harvard University economist and coauthor of a book examining the country’s broken personal finance structure, pointed to a system built to confuse and punish those who lack time, training, or access.

“Creditors are just breathing down their necks,” Carol Fox told Bloomberg News, while noting that rising borrowing costs, shrinking consumer spending, and trade battles under the current administration have left owners desperate. Fox serves as a court-appointed Subchapter V trustee in Southern Florida and has watched the crisis unfold case by case.

During a cabinet meeting on Tuesday, Trump told those present that affordability “doesn’t mean anything to anybody.” He added that Democrats created a “con job” to mislead the public.

However, more than $30 million in taxpayer funds reportedly have supported his golf travel. Reports show Kristi Noem and FBI Director Kash Patel have also made extensive use of private jets through government and political networks. The administration approved a $40 billion bailout of Argentina. The president’s wealthy donors recently gathered for a dinner celebrating his planned $300 million White House ballroom.

During an appearance on CNBC, Mark Zandi, an economist, warned that the country could face serious economic threats. “We have learned that people make many mistakes,” Campbell added. “And particularly, sadly, less educated and poorer people tend to make worse mistakes.”

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The Numbers Behind the Myth of the Hundred Million Dollar Contract

BLACKPRESSUSA NEWSWIRE — Odell Beckham Jr. did not spark controversy on purpose. He sat on The Pivot Podcast and tried to explain the math behind a deal that looks limitless from the outside but shrinks fast once the system takes its cut.

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By Stacy M. Brown
Black Press USA Senior National Correspondent

Odell Beckham Jr. did not spark controversy on purpose. He sat on The Pivot Podcast and tried to explain the math behind a deal that looks limitless from the outside but shrinks fast once the system takes its cut. He looked into the camera and tried to offer a truth most fans never hear. “You give somebody a five-year $100 million contract, right? What is it really? It is five years for sixty. You are getting taxed. Do the math. That is twelve million a year that you have to spend, use, save, invest, flaunt,” said Beckham. He added that buying a car, buying his mother a house, and covering the costs of life all chip away at what people assume lasts forever.

The reaction was instant. Many heard entitlement. Many heard a millionaire complaining. What they missed was a glimpse into a professional world built on big numbers up front and a quiet erasing of those numbers behind the scenes.

The tax data in Beckham’s world is not speculation. SmartAsset’s research shows that top NFL players often lose close to half their income to federal taxes, state taxes, and local taxes. The analysis explains that athletes in California face a state rate of 13.3 percent and that players are also taxed in every state where they play road games, a structure widely known as the jock tax. For many players, that means filing up to ten separate returns and facing a combined tax burden that reaches or exceeds 50 percent.

A look across the league paints the same picture. The research lists star players in New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, Detroit, and Cleveland, all giving up between 43 and 47 percent of their football income before they ever touch a dollar. Star quarterback Phillip Rivers, at one point, was projected to lose half of his playing income to taxes alone.

A second financial breakdown from MGO CPA shows that the problem does not only affect the highest earners. A $1 million salary falls to about $529,000 after federal taxes, state and city taxes, an agent fee, and a contract deduction. According to that analysis, professional athletes typically take home around half of their contract value, and that is before rent, meals, training, travel, and support obligations are counted.

The structure of professional sports contracts adds another layer. A study of major deals across MLB, the NBA, and the NFL notes that long-term agreements lose value over time because the dollar today has more power than the dollar paid in the future. Even the largest deals shrink once adjusted for time. The study explains that contract size alone does not guarantee financial success and that structure and timing play a crucial role in a player’s long-term outcomes.

Beckham has also faced headlines claiming he is “on the brink of bankruptcy despite earning over one hundred million” in his career. Those reports repeated his statement that “after taxes, it is only sixty million” and captured the disbelief from fans who could not understand how money at that level could ever tighten.

Other reactions lacked nuance. One article wrote that no one could relate to any struggle on eight million dollars a year. Another described his approach as “the definition of a new-money move” and argued that it signaled poor financial choices and inflated spending.

But the underlying truth reaches far beyond Beckham. Professional athletes enter sudden wealth without preparation. They carry the weight of family support. They navigate teams, agents, advisors, and expectations from every direction. Their earning window is brief. Their career can end in a moment. Their income is fragmented, taxed, and carved up before the public ever sees the real number.

The math is unflinching. Twenty million dollars becomes something closer to $8 million after federal taxes, state taxes, jock taxes, agent fees, training costs, and family responsibilities. Over five years, that is about $40 million of real, spendable income. It is transformative money, but not infinite. Not guaranteed. Not protected.

Beckham offered a question at the heart of this entire debate. “Can you make that last forever?”

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FBI Report Warns of Fear, Paralysis, And Political Turmoil Under Director Kash Patel

BLACKPRESSUSA NEWSWIRE — Six months into Kash Patel’s tenure as Director of the Federal Bureau of Investigation, a newly compiled internal report from a national alliance of retired and active-duty FBI agents and analysts delivers a stark warning about what the Bureau has become under his leadership.

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By Stacy M. Brown
Black Press USA Senior National Correspondent

Six months into Kash Patel’s tenure as Director of the Federal Bureau of Investigation, a newly compiled internal report from a national alliance of retired and active-duty FBI agents and analysts delivers a stark warning about what the Bureau has become under his leadership. The 115-page document, submitted to Congress this month, is built entirely on verified reporting from inside field offices across the country and paints a picture of an agency gripped by fear, divided by ideology, and drifting without direction.

The report’s authors write that they launched their inquiry after receiving troubling accounts from inside the Bureau only four months into Patel’s tenure. They describe their goal as a pulse check on whether the ninth FBI director was reforming the Bureau or destabilizing it. Their conclusion: the preliminary findings were discouraging.

Reports Describe Widespread Internal Distrust and Open Hostility Toward President Trump

Sources across the country told investigators that a large number of FBI employees openly express hostility toward President Donald Trump. One source reported seeing an “increasing number of FBI Special Agents who dislike the President,” adding that these employees were exhibiting what they called “TDS” and had lost “their ability to think critically about an issue and distinguish fact from fiction.” Another source described employees making off-color comments about the administration during office conversations.

The sentiment reportedly extends beyond domestic lines. Law enforcement and intelligence partners in allied countries have privately expressed fear that the Trump administration could damage long-term international cooperation according to a sub-source who reported those concerns directly to investigators.

Pardon Backlash and Fear of Retaliation

The President’s January 20 pardons of individuals convicted for their roles in the January 6 attack ignited what the report calls demoralization inside the Bureau. One FBI employee said they were “demoralized” that individuals “rightfully convicted” were pardoned and feared that some of those individuals or their supporters might target them or their family for carrying out their duties. Another source described widespread anger that lists of personnel who worked on January 6 investigations had been provided to the Justice Department for review, noting that agents “were just following orders” and now worry those lists could leak publicly.  

Morale In Decline

Morale among FBI employees appears to be sinking fast. There were a few scattered positive notes, but the weight of the reporting describes morale as low, bad, or terrible. Agents with more than a decade of service told investigators they feel marginalized or ignored. Some are counting the days until they can retire. One even uses a countdown app on their phone.  

Culture Of Fear

Layered over that unhappiness is something far more corrosive. A culture of fear. Sources say Patel, though personable, created mistrust from the start because of harsh remarks he made about the FBI before taking office. Agents took those comments personally. They now work in an atmosphere where employees keep their heads down and speak carefully. Managers wait for directions because they are afraid a wrong move could cost them their jobs. One source said agents dread coming to work because nobody knows who will be reassigned or fired next.

Leadership Concerns

The report also paints a picture of leaders unprepared for the jobs they hold. Multiple sources said Patel is in over his head and lacks the breadth of experience required to understand the Bureau’s complex programs. Some said Deputy Director Dan Bongino should never have been appointed because the role requires deep institutional knowledge of FBI operations. A sub-source recounted Bongino telling employees during a field office visit that “the truth is for chumps.” Employees who heard it were stunned and offended.

Social Media and Communication Breakdowns

Communication inside the Bureau has become another source of frustration. Sources said Patel and Bongino spend too much time posting on social media and not enough time communicating with employees in clear and official ways. Several told investigators they learn more about FBI operations from tweets than from internal channels.

ICE Assignments Raise Alarm

Nothing has sparked more frustration inside the FBI than the orders requiring agents to assist Immigration and Customs Enforcement. The reporting shows widespread resentment and fear over these assignments. Agents say they have little training in immigration law and were ordered into operations without proper planning. Some said they were put in tactically unsafe positions. They also warned that being pulled away from counterterrorism and counterintelligence investigations threatens national security. One sub-source asked, “If we’re not working CT and CI, then who is?”  

DEI Program Removal

Even the future of diversity programs became a point of division. Some agents praised Patel’s removal of DEI initiatives. Others said the old system left them afraid to speak honestly because they worried about being labeled racist. The reporting shows a deep and unresolved conflict over whether DEI strengthened the organization or weakened it.

Notable Incidents

The document also details several incidents that have become part of FBI lore. Patel ordered all employees to remove pronouns and personal messages from their email signatures yet used the number nine in his own. Agents laughed at what they saw as hypocrisy. In another episode, FBI employees who discussed Patel’s request for an FBI-issued firearm were ordered to take polygraph examinations, which one respected source described as punitive. And in Utah, Patel refused to exit a plane without a medium-sized FBI raid jacket. A team scrambled to find one and finally secured a female agent’s jacket. Patel still refused to step out until patches were added. SWAT members removed patches from their own uniforms to satisfy the demand.

A Bureau at a Crossroad

The Alliance warns that the Bureau stands at a difficult crossroads. They write that the FBI faces some of the most daunting challenges in its history. But even in despair, a few voices say something different. One veteran source said “It is early, but most can see the mission is now the priority. Case work and threats are the focus again. Reform is headed in the right direction.”  

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